Method of producing sewed fabrics.



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PATBNTED JUNE 18, `1997.

B. H. ZIMMERMAN. METHOD OFPRODUGING SEWER FABRICS. APPLIUATI'D FILED KGV. 20, 1903 l applicable to cases corren eures PATENT OFFICE.

BERNARD n. zii/mecum, or orion, new YORK, Assieme, er imsun ASSIGNMENTS, TQV lUNION' lSPEClAlJ MACHINE ILLINOIS, A CORPORATION OE ILIJINLS` COMPANY,

Nl ETHOD 0F VFlzilODlJCill'diIV SEWED FABlOS.

No. 857,5l0.

Specioeton o Lettera 'Patent i Application filed November 20,

- resented-zenne, 19e?.

1903. Serial No. 181,070.

i To @ZL whom :it may concern:

ments, thc. purpose of my invention being to facilitate the securing together of .the oyerlaping ply or plies 'at' the said neck portion an to provide e. better finishthan usual.

In the specication and claims, I shell for convenience refer tc the overlap ing plies of fabric as single plies although't e invention ie, as indicated 1n t e preceding par rap'n', where the plies eac. coneist oi a number of thicknesses of fabric, hence .the term' f p1y,l` as herein used, is intended to cover one or more thicknesses of fabric. A f l A In the accompanyin' drawings: Figure 1 is. a View illut-stratingtr erapplication of my invention to the production of the neckpcr'- tion of a knitted garment' Fig. 2, is e front view of the neck portion ci the garment after the completion of the procese forming thev subject of my invention; iis a rear View of the same; Fig. 4, is en enlarged diagram illustrating the relation of the securing neelr' auiem to the fabric when -the ozeretion ie about to begin. In the inenueeture ot' certain claseeelof underwear e knitted web is foldezl'on the line ofthe shoulder so as .to form 'beck end lroni; plies or folds l end 2, or euch lice 'or folds are united ou 'the line of elim (loro, und, in order to forni. the or fold 2 ci fabric is out so as to form a. centrai confirmentV 3, which lies upon the back ply or fol l and s secured thereto around "lie edge, this ply beinghaleo secured to the buck ly at the line of t v`e ori iria?. 'Fold or at' the points Where the-upper e gee of Vthe two lies have originally been securecltogether. eretofore, in electin this result it .has beenl usual to first mer upon the back gly, the line to be followed fin cutting out t e neck and then to form a row of stitches folio this line so as to secure the segmental ne piece or Jr'old to the ,beck ply, after which the of which the fol-f to be embeequentlyv of certain improyements in making the neck portions oi ger is impossible, under-the present Ytenerme with the cutting' operation element of iront ply is cut adjacent to' the line of stitches, so as to lree. saiclfront ply from the. back ply and form the finished in any desiredV manner, the raw or cut-edge of the segmentalY back old being then 'covered by ineens [of ztgzag stitches s'ae to prevent exposure O e portion o the error-intt As the cutie mede by from the line of stitches depends uponA the skill end.A accuracy of the perator and hence'l is' likely te vary within wide limits, and, as theoperator has only this'. preliminary line of stitches Ato serve as a guide in the iormation ci thecovering stitcllee,the eye is ein the only means for determining theposition of said covering stitches in" respect tolthe out edge, nance irregularity inthe disposition of such covering stitches must .also result and it practice, to mformand attractive h 8` knitted fabrics moreoyenthe tend e out edge is to curl up, elwoye 'iiicult to form a roy of stitclaeeevenly over such cut edge. ln carrying out vmy inyention, with the usual preliminary row of stitches 'for securing the .two plico oi.- the fabric toother and Ici-m the double-row of connected ettchesby au operation substantially simul the neecose ci ency of cnmee I dispense cile or needles which constitute an anism boerin such relation the sewing mech to the cutter that the etitchee ormcd by such v which,

needle or needles muet necessarily be evenly spaced in respect to the cut ed ge, and as the sewing operation iellows the cutting opere.- tion eo o osely that the cut odge has'uo opportunity to curl. Inet only eiect a saving of time, meten al and labor, as compared with lthe or nary I nethofl, but produce a result,

.ze to uniformity and neatnese in zipfinish V'is or onreine,

neck opening therein` cut edge and impart a neat iinish to thief hind its distance" hence is pea-rence, 1t is impossible to produce byeuch ordinary method.

In carrying'out my vention, I can usei any form of sewing machine having two n eedies, or a zigzag g needle, for producing two rows of stitc ee side by side, either in chain or lock stitch, such` needle or needles being combined with ejlooperl e shuttle, or other means for conne ting sind etitcbesjor ros.

securing of the ap 3 tothe back i ing between the cut and uncut plies. With cha cutter is also employed, by reference, a deiecting late for turning bac that one ofthe cut edp es which is not to-be confined Vto 'the back pzly so that said edge will be out ofthe VWay of the stitch forming mechanism of the machine.

In Fig.- l, of the accom which is an inverted view o appear in practice, 4 represents the cutter anying drawing, Vthe parts as trevehn between the two dplies 1 and 2 and cutting t near ply 2, an 5 represents the deiiebtonvths view showing the condition of the garmentshortly after the o eration has been started and illustrat' t e closeness with which .the formation of thesecuring stitches 6 follows the cutting operation.

Fig. 2, shows the neck 'portlon of the garment after the operation has been concluded, the 'segmental fia or fold 3 being secured to the back ply- 1 o the arment by means of the4 connectedrows vofgstitches| `one row of stitches being .formed in the double ply compris' both the back' plyel'and flap 3, and the ot er rowvofstitches i' ing formed in the `single back ply only, .the connections between the stitches overlappingand covering the cut edge of the flap, which occupies throughout a position midway between the two lines of stltches. Fig. 3 showsthe back of the fabric, illustrating the two lines of stitches whereby the ply of the garment has been effected, end Flg. 4 illus- 'trates how, in b the operation, the

point of t e cutting kmfe penetrates piercin v of the arment so .as to enter bethe fol tween the two p ies and out only the under ply, the outer cut edge of saidunder py being then directed away from the nee les 7 by the defiector 5.

'nection being effected Aeither they . ing underwear,

'the single ply, and

Manydiferent-ways of connecting the two lines o stitches may be ado ted, such cony interlocking and interloopi the stitches i6 or by connecti the two 'nes of stitches by means of an ad tional thread or threads.

Although I have described my invention in connection with the manufacture of the neck portion of a garment, it is capable of application to any line of manufacture in which overlapping portions of fabric comprising either a single ply 0I' a number oflies have to be secured together on a curve line, and the curved edge of one ply has to be covered and protected by the stitches.

Havi of thus described my invention, I claim an desire to secure by Letters Patent:

1. The method herein described, of uniting overlapping lies of fabric, consisting in insorting a k e between the plies and cutting but one' of the same on a 4and by a substantially slmultaneous operation deflecting one vof the cut edges, securing one of said out edges to the lower ply by overstitching, one line of said overstitching passing through and uniting .the two hes and the other ine passin through the slngle 'ply only,.the cross threa s of the over stitch- 1 covering the last mentioned cut edge; su stantially as described. l

42. The method herein described, of neckconsisting in folding the web of fabric to form overlappi plies, inserting a knife at the fold which 1s t ereby caused to enter between the plies, and cutting one of the same, cutt sald ply on a predetermined line, and4 b a su stantially simultaneous operation de ecting one of the cut edges and securing the other cut edge to the lower ply b a double row of stitches, one row assmg tg-ough the two plies and the othert oug 4 uniting said." rows of stitches, so as to cover'the last mentioned cut edge; substantially as specified.

In testimony whereof, I have signed my name to this specification, in the presence of two subscrib' Witnesses.

BEuIIARD H. ZIMMERMAN.

Witnesses:

Hanna Nona, Jos. H. KLEIN. 

